Tim Love inadvertently caused an internet ruckus when news broke that his latest restaurant, a classic Italian diner in Fort Worth’s stockyards, would require diners to ditch their cellphones while they ate. No matter what the internet had to say about it, the skepticism of his 23-year-old wife, Emilie, and her staff was what really happened to him.
So, since Caterina’s dishes won’t be prolifically covering Instagram (the staff will provide diners with photos of their food upon request after the meal), Eater Dallas spoke to Love about her favorite dishes on the menu and how they go. have come together.
Piedmontese Beef Carpaccio
“I have eaten a million beef carpaccios in my life. We wanted to create one that was a bit indulgent and this particular dish has more than meets the eye. This one has a black truffle emulsion and paints it in a thin layer on a very cold plate. Then we shave the beef and place it on the cold plate, hit it with salt and pepper, and pat it with fresh chives, grated cremini mushrooms and baby sprouts dressed in a lemon vinegar, the all topped with gremolata made with dried focaccia, pecorino cheese and lemon zest. We finish it with fresh parmesan and truffle shavings on top of the table. Most of the time when you have beef carpaccio, it’s a soft texture. The gremolata gives it a surprising crunch.
“You don’t see escolar on very many menus. We make a margarita, for lack of better words – we call it a citrus granita. I’m a lifelong margarita fan of any version. It gives it a little nod to Texas, which I like. We shave this granita with a microplane on top of the fish slices and add a thin dice of avocado, plus a Calabrian pepper-based oil and a little salt. It’s a dormant dish on the menu that most people don’t choose unless we sell it to them.
“White fish and citrus is one of my favorite combinations. When you get this dish it is so cold. I love seafood as an antipasto, but like to eat something sharp and sour before I start indulging in the richness of Italian cuisine. “
Coniglio in Agrodolce
“I can’t open a restaurant without some sort of game on the menu. This dish was put together by Culinary Director Jason Chaya. After I write the menus, we have discussions and we ask ourselves: “Do we want to be sweet, do we want it to be spicy, do we want to be crunchy? I wanted it to be sweet, sour and very unusual. After I wrote Coniglio en Agrodolce, he wrote three versions of what he thinks it is. I came back and said, ‘no, no, yes.’
“It’s half a rabbit in this stew made with pancetta, sour cherries, golden raisins, pine nuts and a bit of dark chocolate, a kind of bittersweet Italian mole. It is a low and slow dish. We dust the rabbit with Wondra flour and fry it first in a pan to give the outside a crispy skin. The pancetta stew begins with a mirepoix made with juniper berries, black peppercorns and sprigs of thyme reduced in golden balsamic vinegar. Then we add the ingredients, plus chicken broth. We sit the rabbit and serve it in this beautiful copper pot. It’s with bones, so it’s a bit difficult to eat in the sense that you have to cut around it. We call this a working dish.
“Caterina’s is named after my late sister Kathleen, who passed away a few years ago. I am the youngest of seven children, with three brothers and three sisters. The sister closest to me is called Alison and she gets jealous quite easily so I had to name a dish for her [laughs]. She’s blonde, so I wanted it to be light and bright.
“We quickly poached a lobster and removed the meat from the shells. We split the tail, then we rub the main claws and the flesh of the tail with candied lemon. We grill it at a very high temperature over cast iron – the claws, the tails, everything. We put the shank meat aside while making ricotta sweetcorn ravioli we call peaches and cream, using Iowa sweetcorn. Next, we prepare a rich parmesan cream sauce with the shank meat that accompanies the ravioli.
“We take a 16 ounce pork chop, remove the double bone and pound the loin so it’s super thin – just like veal picatta. Sprinkle it and flour and add butters and garlic and shallots then lots of lemon and white wine and capers and put it on a plate with grilled lemon and this lovely sauce has been whipped up with a little of butter. We braise the bone side for six hours, then cool it, sprinkle it with a seasoned cornstarch and fry it. This is the best set of pork ribs.